Robin’s advice – Arrive for the VP by train!!!

The lengthy works on the bridge over the railway lines near Pardubice main station have finally been completed, but have done nothing to improve access by road to Pardubice racecourse, which has always been lamentable on VP day. It has also done nothing to improve access on foot, either. On the contrary, the good old way to get from the railway station to the racecourse, within 15 minutes on foot, still involves walking over the mainline railway tracks – which is of course illegal. The official network of footpaths from the station to the course has been made even more complicated and even more circuitous – in fact, a smack in the face for us committed pedestrians.

Nevertheless, there is free bus transport to and from the main railway station and the racecourse on Velka Pardubicka day, before and after the races. The bus station is directly opposite the main exit from the main concourse of the station, and the racecourse special buses leave from stand no 3.

The transport police are supposed to give priority to public transport over private cars. The journey to the racecourse would normally take 7 minutes without traffic jams, which are, however, to be reckoned with on VP day, even if the transport police do their best. The buses going to the railway station after the races will probably leave from the bus stop on the main road, just behind the start of the Velka Pardubicka. [Taxis are to be avoided, but if you need to take one, they will also not get closer access to the racecourse than the side roads opposite the bus stop.] By the way, if you know your way from the station to the racecourse, do not be alarmed if the special buses seem to be going in the wrong direction. They will just be avoiding the bottlenecks created for racegoers by Pardubice urban planners in their attempts to modulate commuter traffic in the town.

Another option is to take a train from Pardubice main station to Pardubice – závodište, which is the racecourse station. Strangely, Czech railways offers only the ordinary infrequent Sunday morning service on this line on Velka Pardubicka day, though it is supplemented by a nice privately-run historical railway service from the main station to the racecourse station, for which you pay about 20 crowns, payable on the train. However, I think they have only one set of rolling stock, so these trains do not run very frequently.     

Pardubice main station is the second busiest hub in the Czech rail network, second only to Prague Main Station. Pardubice can be accessed very well from the west (Prague) and also from the east, southeast (Brno) and northeast (Ostrava). Services to the north and to the south are slower and less frequent, but are also usable. Czech Rail (České Dráhy) is a sponsor of racing at Pardubice, and if you show a valid Czech Rail ticket, you can get into the course (without a seat) for half price on any raceday, including VP day.

If you are aged 65 or over, or if you have a student under the age of 26 with an ISIC card, and are an EU citizen, you now qualify for a 75% reduction on the rail (and bus) network, and over 65s travel free-of-charge on Prague city transport – we oldsters are now living in socialism, though only until March 29th, 2019, in the case of non-resident Brits. Note that your ISIC card or your passport is your ticket for these concessions, and you must carry it and show it without hesitation to an inspector. When buying your ticket, specify that you qualify by showing your ISIC card or your passport and mumbling student or duchodce – dookhodse, ch is pronounced like in loch. Duchodce means pensioner. If you are 65 but think you look younger, show your document.

There is a very good, frequent and inexpensive rail service between Prague main station and Pardubice main station. This is the main international line joining Paris, Munich, Berlin and Prague with Poland, Slovakia, Austria and points further north, east and south east. All trains stop at Pardubice. The 10.24 train from Prague will get us to the course in time for the first race on Saturday, which is off at 12 midday. The 09.51 train on Sunday will get us there for the first race, which is off at 11.30, though an earlier train would be needed for the official opening on the great day.

For getting back to Prague in the evening, my advice is just to get to the station and catch the next available train. Especially on Saturday evening, there are delays on long-distance trains due to scheduled works on the line. Reservations are recommended on Sunday evening, when plenty of people return to the capital city after the weekend. Alternatively, be ready to stand for 55 minutes on a fast train. Note that reservations have to be made some hours in advance, for example when you buy your ticket for the outward journey. The Velka Pardubicka is run at 4.40 p.m., so a reservation on a train leaving Pardubice Hl. N. at 6pm or later is advised.

Note that there are private companies, Regiojet (RJ) and Leojet (LE), for which Czech Rail tickets are not valid. For a Czech Rail Pendelino train (SC), a prepaid reservation is required. So, do not get on a train indicated as RJ, LE or SC without the correct ticket. Curiously, or fiendishly, Czech Rail has trains indicated as rj, lower case, which you can use with an ordinary ticket, The rj trains are to and from Graz,and are particularly comfortable.     

Avoid travelling by bus from Prague to Pardubice and back on Sunday. There are so many sure blockages and potential bottlenecks on the roads, on the way there, and also in the Sunday evening return of weekend drivers making their way back to town.

Prague airport is to the west of the city, on the far side of Prague from Pardubice. A taxi driver would make the journey inside two hours, with a bit of luck. There is a direct half-hourly bus service, Bus AE, between the airport and the main station, though experienced travellers will save 28 crowns by using the 119 bus or the 100 bus, and may save even more by buying a one-day ticket.

Frequent visitors to the VP reckon that one of the hotels between the main station and Wenceslas Square, or anywhere in the city centre, and train travel to Pardubice on the Saturday and the Sunday is a really good option. Another option is of course to stay in Pardubice.  

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 Photo of Robin, by TCZH